Split Backpacking

 1. Split: 3 days (Trogir, Omis incl),

2. Hvar: 2 days,

3. Pee-lee-teh-we-tseh National Park: 1 day,

4. Dubrovnik: 1 day (maybe one more day)...

 Where after?!

After repetitious inquiries from our guests, we finally decided to do some research and to check out some further destinations near abroad. After Dubrovnik two options come in mind: oriental Bosnia or rocky Montenegro. Well, our Montenegrin crew from Hostel 2 spared us from any brainer on this one. So Montenegro it is, and Kotor as our first stop.

 Going to Montenegro directly from Split is actually quite easier during the season (May-Sep), with 7 times a week (from 2015. every day in the afternoon) connections to all Montenegrin coastal cities. The rest of the year it goes two times a week, but there is also an option to take frequent bus connections to Dubrovnik and from there take buses to Kotor, Budva or Podgorica. (http://www.ak-split.hr/HR/vozni.red/VozniRedOdlazaka.aspx )

If you are taking this trip in peak season like we did, expect crowded bus and make sure to buy your ticket at least one day in advance, be prepared for  9 hrs long journey, 3 border checkpoint stops and some traffic jams after Montenegrin border. Our bus was supposed to arrive at 9PM in Kotor, but due to long queue on Cro-Mon border we arrived around 11.30PM! (Tip from our Montenegrin staff Marina: this bus regularly runs off the schedule so aprox 1hr late arrival is rule of thumb)

Finally Kotor! Good thing is that Bus station is walking distance from city center (read: the old part of town within the old city walls, as many touts around Bus station will try to sell you accommodation allegedly in the center, don t take it unless you don t mind taking a taxi or long walk back to center. Kotor is small but pretty outstreched city, so some of the neighbourhoods „next to the center“ can actually be few km away.)

Our accommodation in the old town. Kotor is bit more expensive regarding the accommodation comparing with the rest of Montenegro, 15-20 eur is dorm bed in couple of hostels in the old town, 30-40 eur private room around old town. The reason for this probably is the scarcity of accommodation during the season, most places in center are booked couple of days in advance, so what is left on the day of arrival is either too far or too expensive. If you know some locals it can help you to bargain better price (Thanks Marina!) but private room with 4 beds, kitchenette and toilette within the city walls couldnt go lower than 60EUR. 

 

No need to say it was one of the best locations in Old Town/ Kotor/ Montenegro/ World. Underviewing Fortress of St Ivan, listening Holy Mass in St Ana church from balcony (at least getting awaken by in the morning), overlooking people down the street and nearby restaurant. Morning coffee before going out, MUST be Turkish style with Montenegrin variety (more water with less coffee, with no sugar or milk). Tap water is bit different if you are used to clean and fresh Split styled water, still drinkable though.

Chill out in one bar squeezed in 3m wide street just in the middle of the city, hard to find if you don t know the streets here. (map) It s situated close to street that circles around the old town, before the church XXXX and after XXXX. Good thing about this bar is that the most of the day it is not exposed to the sun, has very good foamy capuccino, sweet red home made wine and excellent a la carte choice of Montenegrin, Macedonian, Croatian and Italian wines. The guy who runs it is very cool guy, apparently has been in Thailand recently, wore Thai „Chiang“ beer T-shirt 3 days in a row. Maybe too much of Bob Marley music in late afternoon, but it is tolerable because it is not so loud anyway.

After dinner? We changed our place for XXX place near XXX square. Definitely recommended if you are up for checking some domestic rakijas. Order viljamovka (pear rakija) or medica (honey rekija) won t regret it, it is also good to combine or drink together with Niksicko draft, 1 rakija shot per 0.3 beer is good ratio, but some of us managed 2-3 rakija shots per 0.3 beer. Depending where to go after, if clubbing than latter would be more appropriate. No need to go far as the only (worth) place to go after 2am (when all old town bars are closing down) is club Maximus on the west side of city walls. There is cover fee of around 2 eur for regular night, expect 10-20eur for some DJs, 30eur for Lepa Brena.

Spacious and not too crowded with oppotunity to meet fellow travelers, downside is that smoking is allowed everywhere and local people tend to smoke heavily.

This is one small beach we found just at the opposite side of Bay of Kotor,: It is 30min walk from the city, but it is woth it as the restaurant and bar are just meters away from the beach, so was possible to literally jump from bar chair into sea. There we ate kajmak, try it with bread and yoghurt in the morning, tastes like very greasy fresh cheese, good if you are still hangover or if you are planning to climb up to fortress hill above Kotor (highly reccommended cause the view is breathtaking).

Talk Russian as Kotor and its surroundings tend to receive more and more tourists from Russia. They are bit shy in English, but you will discover their real side once you start to brush up your basic Russian with them. (sl neki rusi)

Next stop Budva...seee you soon

MOST POPULAR BEACHES IN SPLIT!!

Split beaches

Another unusual good fact about Split is that it has several clean and popular beaches in resident part of the city which is quite an suprise regarding the fact that Split peninsula are surraunded by industrial facilities on the north and Main city Harbor on south. But still on southern and western shores you can find parks, residential area and tourist facilities with accommodation, beaches, night clubs, museums, ferry port etc. There is a true Mediterranean spirit of the town.
For the start we are going to describe the most popular beaches in split and by that the first in our line is Bačvice beach.

Bačvice is most famous and most popular beach in the Split. It is all from fine sand but artificial sand not natural sand. Bačvice is also name for district of the city. What is convenient about this beach is that is located in very center of the city. The distance from the Diocletian palace (old town) is about 10 to 15 minutes walk. Although the beach is in very center of city, still it has blue flag; award for most cleanest and organized beaches in Europe. The best time to be at the beach is at June and September since during season time (JUly and August) is overcrowded with local population and tourists also. The benefit of this beach is that the beach bay is very shallow. You need to walk 50m in sand before you can reach enough dept to swim. Because shallow sea you will see lot of people playing local game – picigin. On the beach you cna find several coffee bars; you can rent a beach chairs and sunshades for 3-4 euro per day. They are showers with drinkable water on the beach.

Beach Trstenik

This beach is located in the same named district of the Split where are located few popular hotels, lot of apartments and other accommodation types are. Beach it self
is pebble or gravel with shallow entrance and it is suitable for families with small children. Sea is crystal blue because small gravel stones. The beach has also
showers, changing rooms, watch towers, and beach chairs for rent. Only downthing about this beach is that there is no natural shade but there are few beach bars where
you can stay in shade and refresh yourself with cold drink. Location of this beach is around 4 km southeast from the center of Split or around 30 min walk from the
hostel.


Žnjan

One of the most popular beaches on southeast side of Split is Žnjan pebble beach. It is newest built beach in Split and so far largest location for enjoy in sea and
sun. The beach consists of several separated bays thus they are in fact several beaches stretching almost 1 km wide. Žnjan location is consisting mostly of pebble and
rock beaches. But since this pebbles are not natural it is also artificial which makes not nice surface to lay on. Žnjan is very popular location for locals because it
has lot of beach space, enough parking space and brilliant sea. This Beaches also have showers with drinkable water, changing rooms, watch towers and lot of beach bars
where you can enjoy in day and night.

Ježinac

Ježinac is first of few beaches located in west part of Split city, more precisely under the Park Forest Marjan. Those beaches are located in district Meje – elite party of city that is quite isolated from city noise. Ježinac beach is pebble beach and on some section concrete beach as well. This type of the beach is mostly visited by locals since it is not easily accessible by foot. Good side of this beach is that providing a good cliff jumping height from 5m to 12 meters.

WALKTHROUGH THE BEST BARS IN SPLIT

GAGA   FACEBOOK PAGE
Gaga is the local place run by locals it is just behind Narodni trg, Gaga is a busy cocktail bar filling a tiny old square (check out the authentically retro barber’s signs) with a young, party atmosphere. It is open whole year but the best times are from mid May until late september. What makes this bar special is for cocktails, the only drink served from the counter set up outside, are dangerously cheap. Inside a standard interior, loud mainstream music keeps people from too much conversation and it last until 01:00 am which makes perfect warm up place before you go out to clubs.

GHETTO BAR
Ghetto bar is definently unique is his interior / exterior and the vibe that comes through the season time. It is the most bohemian of the bars in the Diocletian palace, front courtyard, a small bar leading to a muralled main room with a vaguely erotic theme (‘Welcome to the House of Love’), and an upstairs gallery, open according to event. All the art paitings and the interior is made some by locals and some by inspirational tourists that are happy to hear reliably good music.

CHARLIES BAR  FACEBOOK PAGE
Charlies bar is typical tourist place which is founded by Aussies, built by backpackers and loved by locals, charlie's bar is the place to let loose, meet like minded people and most of all, party. It is the drinking place in the main center of the town with early start and late finishes around 01:00 am. It is perfect place if you want to hang out with others travellers and with mainstream music it keeps best option for pre drinking spot. On the season time it is not strange to run up to theme party and it is definitely not unusual to have drink of the day improvise by some of the tourists or staff members.

ZANAT BAR
Zanat bar or if you want to translate it on English it means Craft bar. It is one of the best "Underground" bars in the center of Split which is located in the heart of Diocletian palace. This bar offers the cheapest drinks in the Split with standard and only menu option: Beer, vine, schnapps and whiskey. This is quite unique bar, where you can not find an sign how to find it or where it is, the only way how you can find this place is to ask young locals they will point it on the map where it is. This is the only bar in Split where is no music on, it is the place where people go to hang out and play cards. In the off season (from October to May) it is the far the best place to be for pre drinking. Only down thing about this place is to many smoke and without ventilation system it is to much smoke inside after few hours.

IMPERIUM BAR  FACEBOOK PAGE

Imperium Restaurant & Lounge bar is located in the heart of the Split harbour. It combines several activities in one place – an exclusive restaurant, lounge bar, patisserie and a very popular nightclub.
This club in its early beginigs was an techno/house place with on eof the best DJ, but it soon become an popular local place that plays folk music. This place offers mostly local music or folk music with live music every Friday and on the Saturday an DJ. During the season time it is the one of the stop overs in many Pub Crawls where on some of them you get 90 minutes open bar. Most visitors are amazed how this place is furnished and designed with large fish tank that separates restaurant and club and the best view on the city and on the city harbor where you have first look at beautiful yachts and ships while dancing and having a great time!

RAKIJARNICA BAR     FACEBOOK PAGE
Rakijarnica or translated to English SCHNAPPS BAR is unique bar where you can try all the types of schnapps made in Croatia. Location of this bar is in the narrow city center and on the main bar area in old town. It is located on the steps that leads to the wall of Diocletian palace which makes it perfect drinking place. During off season it is closed but in the season time from June until September it is open and if you wanna enjoy in the surrounding area in is good place to start the night.

WALK THROUGH THE SPLIT TOP RESTAURANTS!!!

We took some free time to see which places will be best to recommend and most of them around 90% of all the restaurants in Split have the same menu. Since it is big competition in the city they all are trying harder and harder to be better than others and to stay true to themselves and their heritage, using local produce, serving traditional and regional dishes either in a fine dining manner or in a casual settingThey all try to What makes them differences is in serving. We give you our choice of the restaurants that you need to try, they are among the best ones in Split, regarding the food quality, service, location, price and hospitality.
 


Bistro Toć ( Šegvića 1 ) FACEBOOK PAGE

Only a few minutes away from the palace and the most popular beach Bacvice settled small family bistro Toć. It is The "Mexican restaurant" in Split.They offer a range of Mexican dishes with a changing menu including fresh fish, meat and vegetables. Faithful traditional specialties are a part of their offer facing international cuisine and vegetarian. With homemade cakes in bistro you can always have a glass of fine Croatian wine or a cocktail in the interior part of the bistro or outside of the covered garden.

Mazgoon ( Bajamontijeva 1 ) FACEBOOK PAGE

Probably the most interesting of all the newly opened restaurants in Split is Mazzgoon. It offers various traditional and international dishes, from their black shrimp burger to weekends of Brazillian cusisine, Mazzgoon is a very popular and very hip place. Perfect for a group of friends or couples. The chef and staff of Mazgoon are always creating new classic dish . Located in the very heart of historic quarters, and open all year round, Mazzgoon is definitely a place to visit over and over.  

Tavern Buffet Fife ( Trumbiceva obala 11 ) FACEOOK PAGE

Tavern Buffet Fife Split is located in an old neighborhood of Matejuska, not far from the Palace walls. Just walk by the sea, pass Riva (a seaside promenade), and you’ll arrive right at Fife. It is located in a small, traditional stone house, with an outdoor terrace.

Buffet Fife offers traditional Dalmatian dishes, cooked old fashion style. Expect big, tasty and inexpensive portions of food.

Wine & Cheese Bar Paradox ( Poljana Tina Ujevića 2 ) FACEBOOK PAGE

  It is the the most popular Split restaurant on Tripadvisor. This is not a full-service restaurant. It is a wine & cheese bar, offering over 100 wine labels (many of them served by glass) and choice of small bites (cheese, prosciutto, olives, etc.). It is well located, just few minutes walk from the Palace. Staff is very knowledgeable and eager to help you to choose food and pairing wines. This is very helpful, especially if you are not familiar with Croatian wines. It can be crowded on summer evenings, especially over the weekend.

Uje Oil Bar ( Dominisova 3 ) FACEBOOK PAGE

 Is a tapas style restaurant, located at the heart of Split old town. It opened recently, in May 2013. The place has a very good vibe, friendly staff, tasty food, excellent choice of olive oils and wines. The food is served on wooden boards, and in a tinware. The warm dishes’ menu is updated daily, while cold cuts, marinated fish, and a choice of olive oils are available daily. Prices are reasonable.

Tavern Matejuska ( Tomića Stine 3 ) FACEBOOK PAGE

 is located close to the harbor. It’s a small, family-run restaurant with great atmosphere and excellent food. The restaurant can accommodate approximately 30 people, half inside, and half at their outdoor terrace. Reservations are needed, especially during the summer. Tavern offers traditional regional dishes mostly based on a seafood, but they have meat dishes as well. Offer changes with the season. Food is prepared in a simple way. Everything served here is very fresh and tasty. Service is friendly and prices are affordable. House wine is cheap and of a good quality. It is one of the highly recommended Split restaurants.

FEAST OF ST. DUJAM!!!

Saint Domnius (also known as Saint Dujam or Saint Duje) was a 3rd-century Bishop of Salona and patron of the city of Split. He was executed by order of Emperor Diocletian and later regarded as the patron saint of the city.

Sudamja is the traditional feast of St. Duje. For centuries it is held every May 7. This feast is celebrated at the same time and day of the city of Split.

And this year, from early morning until late at night over a hundred thousand citizens of Split will be enjoying various parties, cultural attrations, exibitions.... There will also be traditional festivals, klapa singing, folklore on Riva, gathering on the Marjan hill and Varoš (15th half marathon, St. Križ celebration, Marjan Day celebration).

Feast of St. Duje begins in the morning with Holy Mass in the Cathedral of St. Duje (Assumption) and a procession.

The Split Riva again will be hosting a number of traders with their colorful offers. At the same time, on the waterfront, will be organized the traditional, unavoidable prize raffle (tombula).

The highlight of the St. Duje celebration is certainly the concert on the main promenade – Riva, for three hours, with the beggining at 21h. The guests will be entertained by local band Libar and Massimo, one of the greatest artists among musicians. Between the performances, the visitors on the main venue - Riva will be delighted with the firework that will color this wonderful night for a few minutes. 

BEST SLICES OF PIZZA IN SPLIT!!!

Pizzeria Portas  
is old school pizzeria located in small street inside of the Diocletion palace, on a left side of Gold gates. Outside is a terrace  with a few tables.  When you sit there you feel old Dalmatian  ambient. The time stops and you enjoy in fresh air, around you are old stones and beautiful trees authentic Dalmatian. About menu, they have only pizza, lasagne, homemade pasta and salads.  Most everything on this menu is so delicious that everyone just wants to sink their teeth in. Pizza with prosciutto and pepperoni is the best one,Quattro Stagioni (four seasons) pizza is also incredible. Green pasta with sea food is heaven on earth. As is everything else at Portas.Also you can order traditional dish of the island Vis "Viška pogača" with a glass of good red wine and a drop of olive oil. 

Pizzeria Maslina

Just as you enter famous Marmont street, on the left side a true surprise is waiting for you, a beautiful tradicinal pizzeria with an outside terrace. This is the place to be, it's where the local people go and always very busy. They offer also a variety of simple, perfectly executed dishes, but pizza is what you come for. Serves from the standard ham & cheese pizza to some exotic combinations including fresh sea food. pizzeria „Maslina“ offers a wide selection of dishes from the Mediterranean cuisine, as well as big variety of alcoholic and non alcoholic beverages and desserts. Domestic ham (prosciutto) and cheese, grilled fish, squid, octopuss, various types of spgahetti, pizzas and lasagna are just a small part from the rich offer of dishes in Maslina. Looking around as I wait, I notice most of the clientele are groups of young people. All pizza's are cooked in wood burning brick oven.

Konoba pizzeria Gušt

Konoba in Dalmatia means Taverna. Place has a long tradition in Split This is another pizza “temple” in the center of town. In this „konoba“ mostly  local people eat.

You need to know where it is because it is hard to find. Less than 10 minutes from the Riva. If the department store PRIMA is on your right, go past the tobacco and bureau de exchange which is on the same side, turn immediately right after tobacco shop, go up the hill turn left and you will see the sign in gold on the wall which says GUŠT, and turn immediately left again down a very narrow alley and there is GUŠT, (around the corner). Pizzeria is small and  with dark wood all around. They have the best  pizza with shrimps, it is thin and crispy. Also try „seljačka“(bacon,cheese,egg,onion). You can even see the guy making your pizza!

BEST AND ONLY OPTION FOR THE NIGHTCLUB IN SPLIT - FRIDAY NIGHT!!!!

When is off season in Split as a guest we must say you do not have many options where to go on Friday night. From 1st of October until 14th of June, Split starts to be little quiet city without many options for good nightlife. Although, there are clubs that are still open during this period but they are out off reach if you do not have a car. Knowing this we took some time to decide where is the best place to be on Friday night after 01:00 am
and the best option is the club Vanilla. It is typical local club with local music every Friday, so it means that you will not understand any single word. Drinks are relatively cheap for example: bear = 20,00 KN or 2.8€, some cocktails are from 6€ to max. 10€. For the atmosphere we will give B minus, only down thing about this club is that is always overcrowded and until they open outside terrace (Summer time only) place is like an oven.
Club is located on the north side of the city which is around 30 min walk from the main city center (Diocletian palace) or 10 minutes by car. If you go with taxi, you need to remeber that the price for one car should not cost more then 70,00 KN per car.
Until Summer kicks in, this is the best option for Friday night in Split!!